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Le Belle Époque is not the jewel in the crown of the town of Romorantin, unlike the Hotel du Lion d'or, it does not drape itself in swathes of pretension. It is however the understated centre of social life in the town. Here you will find Pascal, the allegedly humorous waiter who could easily double as Salvador Dali. He whizzes around the tables that nestle in the basin of a sunken terrace, and as you sit amongst the natives, he will dutifully refill your Riccard without spoiling your view of the passing Romaranians. The best time to visit is at dusk. Youngsters on motorcycles stop in the square to strut like peacocks in rainbow leather suits, and skipping children wander home with their parents after soccer or music lessons. This is the real France, the Youthful France that tugs at the umbilical ties of traditionalism, and the old, that wave’s modernism away, as if it were un unwanted side dish. If you want the facade of French life, then look elsewhere, you will find it in the Michelin star restaurants, in polite conversations, or in Le Figaro. But if you seek out the Jean-luc Goddard, Chabrol or Rohmer in French society, a brief bivouac at the Belle Époque will allow you to peek into that world. All you have to do is sit, look and listen.